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Archive for March, 2010

What is a guinea pig a cross from?

March 27th, 2010 admin No comments

I know there part of the rodent family in stuff but what is the GP a cross between a rat and something else… idk… they don't really have a tail


Answer:They aren't a cross of anything. They're their own unique species.

Answer:Guinea pigs are not a cross between anything. They are in the Rodent order but in a rather odd sub-order (hystricomorpha) which includes guinea pigs, old world porcupines, agoutis, chinchillas and a few other such things.

The guinea pig family (caviidae) is native to the high plains of the Andes mountains in South america. The domestic guinea pig (Cavia porcellus) is essentially now its own species but was probably derived from one or more wild species (Cavia aperea, Cavia cutleri, Cavia tschudii) which still occur in the wild and which, in most cases will cross with domestic guinea pigs.

Guinea pigs do have sort of a rudimentary tail but it doesn't stick out. However, if you feel the back of the spine where the tail should be, you will feel a few vertebrae that are like a tiny tail under the skin.

Sorry if that was more than you bargined for but once a teacher, always a teacher even retired! :-)


Answer:guinea pigs are not a cross from ANYTHING. it's an insult to their species to call them a cross of something. don't let my guinea pigs hear that!! they are called cavy and were first kept in south america for food-cavy meat, very gross, i would rather starve than eat that (i'm vegetarian).

guinea pigs=VERY OWN SPECIES.


Answer:They come from Caviidae that's why a they can also be called Cavy.

Hope I helped.


Answer:A hamster and a pig

Dog keeps getting ear infections but has super clean ears?!!?? help!?

March 27th, 2010 admin No comments

My 1 year old aussie keeps getting ear infections. His ears are perfectly clean though, no brown or black crud. No oozing, nothing.

I clean his ears 1-2 times a month and after every bath/swimming/ect with "vets best" it has a ear clean and then an ear dry tube to use:

vets best: http://www.petco.com/Assets/product_imag…

I know he has something wrong with his ears because he keeps shaking his head and will tilt it every so often before he shakes his head. There is no "squishy" noise if you gently massage his ear so there isnt mosture in the ear. i checked with a cotton ball as well and it came out dry.

He had one about 4-6 months ago too and at that time it was an "innner ear infection" they gave him 3 shots, one was a steriod and that fixed it. It was $90! and i dont like the idea of him getting steriods all the time for these ear infections either, beside $200 a year on ear infections plus all the other expenses and toys, gas money time off work to go/ect is going to really drain the bank.

He just started showing these signs last night and if there isnt anything else to be done and he is still haveing problems or it gets worste I WILL take him to the vet again in the next few days.(i love my dog and feel stongly on keeping them healthy and safe)

I know with kids the doctors are saying that most ear infections work themselves out in a few weeks, is it the same for dogs?

Im not asking for "veternarian advice" just asking if anyone else has had to deal with this with their dog, if so what did you find to be the problem/solution?

-his food doesnt have corn/wheat by-products or other junk. (from petstore lamb meal first ingredient)

so i dont think it is his food…

anyone?


Answer:Well, I know that 90$ is a lot of money. I don´t know about shots with steroids as my vet gave my something to put in my dogs ears and some antibiotics when he had ear infections. You could discuss your options and your concerns with your vet or get a second opinion from another vet.

BUT I would very strongly recommend that you go to the vet with your boy. I have a now about 13 year old Aussie, that I´ve got when he was about 4 years old. He is a rescue and I think that he had his ear infection already for some time when I´ve got him. He was treated as soon as I recognized there was something wrong. But the infection came back again and again for about 6 years. During the last year of this time almost once a month! And finally he ended up deaf because of this. He is deaf for more than 3 years now. So I think you risk a lot if you decide not to treat this properly. Good luck with your boy!


Answer:might want to try vinegar then clean out the ear with a cotton swab. try a google search for home remedies for dog ear infection. Might need to trim the ear hair, if it is long, because it can stop the ear from drying properly.

Answer:No its not his ear infection won't go away by itself it will only get worse until it costs a lot more than $90 to fix it! Take him to the vet!!

Answer:If your dog has fluid in his ear you may not be able to see it or able to get anything on a cotton ball.

He could have an inner ear infection which is not visible unless looked at by your vet

Ear infections in humans and canines do not go away over time, they worsen and can actually cause deafness and not mention are terribly painful.

Don't wait a few days to get him to be examined bring him in ASAP so that he can be properly diagnosed and a treatment plan started.


Answer:It could still be the food, or another allergen. I used to have a dog that was allergic to lamb (and chicken, beef, eggs, canned tuna………the list goes on). Even once I finally formulated a homemade diet that he didn't react to, he still had a bit of environmental allergy reaction in the springtime.

$200/year is cheap. Trust me.

Will my rabbit accept this guinea pig?

March 27th, 2010 admin No comments

My friends rabbits just died and now her guinea pig has no mate, do you think my female rabbit would accept it? shes 3 years old and shes had a mate before (her brother) but he died last year

What can i do to let her accept it?


Answer:You can not house rabbits and guinea pigs together safely or allow them to play. I'm sorry, you just can't. There's several known problems with it, why would you risk the health and lives of the pets involved?

1) Rabbits and guinea pigs have incompatible diets. Guinea pigs fed rabbit food will develop a vitamin C deficiency. Rabbits fed guinea pig food will be getting an excess of vitamin C which can lead to arthlerosclerosis, heart attack and death.

2) More than 85% of domestic rabbits carry the bacteria Pasteurella multocida in their systems- while it will cause the rabbit no problems in most cases unless they are stressed, a guinea pig exposed can easily develop serious respiratory infections.

3) Rabbits have incredibly powerful hind legs, and guinea pigs have long spines. A single kick from a rabbit (even one playing, and even a small rabbit) can kill a guinea pig easily.

4) Rabbits hump to establish dominance- guinea pigs have fairly delicate pelvic structures that can be, and are commonly, broken by a humping rabbit.

While sometimes people don't have issues with them together, it's a large risk, and one I would not take with any of my pets. I don't know why anyone else would, either.


Answer:Hi there.

Unfortunately, it is a common misconception that guinea pigs and rabbits can be kept together. Seeing as they are both female, it is likely that one of them will bully the other (usually the rabbit bullys the guinea pig). You can give it a go, but rabbits and guinea pigs both have completely different dietary needs and personalities.

I hope I helped - good luck :)


Answer:People say you can cage guinea pigs and rabbits together, but it's false. It's actually been said that rabbits have bullied the guinea pigs so I wouldn't recommend it. Also if rabbits have to much vitamin c they die and guinea pigs need lots of vitamin c. And if the rabbit gets scared or excited it has been known that they kick the guinea pig with their hind legs so if I were you I wouldn't cage them together to completely different species.

Hope I helped!!!!!!


Answer:rabbits can have different companions..but the guinea pig and rabbit should be spayed/ neutered..the guinea pig will probably except her but it depends on how the rabbit reacts.. you should put them in a neutral area with something separating them and see how they react and go step by step

Answer:No never mix rabbits and guinea pigs they are completely different spieces and should never be keep together. Rabbits will always bully guinea pigs and can seriously harm them even kill them. Guinea pigs should always be keep with another guinea pig and rabbits with another rabbit.

Answer:Only if they are introduced when they are premature…

Answer:I dont think rabbits and guinea pigs get alone.

Answer:If she's had a mate before then yeah it could work.

I would say however that you put them in a pen together first with you there and see how they get on. If they look obviously peed off that the other one is there then obviously you know it's not going to work.

How do u get two dogs unstuck when one dog is in labor?

March 27th, 2010 admin No comments

What I think you are saying is that a male is trying to mate with a female in labor? Not very possible. The female would have ripped him apart from end to end. If you are saying the pup is stuck then put the mother in your car and bring her to the vet.


Answer:Thanks y'all it's resolved now

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Answer:Let's assume the asker means heat and not labor. I recently read about a breeder who broke an abnormally long tie simply by grabbing her nail clippers and the males paw. Faced with having his nails clipped, he "deflated" immediately.

Now, go call the vet and arrange to have her spayed!


Answer:This is normal. The sex parts of the dogs swell up enabiling them to get stuck.

Just leave them alone, once they relax they will seperate.

DO NOT PUT WATER OR ANY LIQUID ON THEM, this a common mistake that can possibly hurt the dogs.

ADD: I'm referring to if the dog is in heat. I didn't realize they said 'labor'


Answer:Im not sure what you mean but if you mean they are stuck as in breeding than you cant get them unstuck. Im sorry but if you try and pull them apart it will hurt them. You have to wait and you might want to get your dogs fixed to prevent this next time. Hope this helps.

Answer:IN LABOR? They can't "get stuck" while the female is in labor. And if she is the male needs to be far away or she just might tear him a new one.

She is most likely in heat, not labor and you can't get them unstuck you'll injure one or both of them. What you do is call your vet and ask them what to do.


Answer:Do you mean when one is in heat? Dogs don't get "stuck" when the female is in labor (about to have puppies). Can you clarify the situation, please?

Answer:I presume you mean "in heat".

You don't. Instead, you pick up your phone, call your vet, and arrange to have both of them fixed ASAP.


Answer:A ***** in labor is not going to allow a male to breed with her.

Answer:troll

unless you mean pups stuck then its vet time or i assume as you should you have a vet on call?

My Guinea Pig Won

March 27th, 2010 admin No comments

I have had my guinea pig for a week now and all he eats is Thomson Hay and Guinea Pig Seed Mix…

I have tried carrots, romaine lettuce, apples, cucumber and orange, with no luck… I would like to see him eat natural foods that contain Vitamin C rather than in the food he is eating now… He is not at the stage to eat from my hand I guess because he won't! I have his fruit and veggies in his cage right now and all he does is stay in his pigloo…..Anything I can do to entice him to eat his veggies???

Thanks for all suggestions……


Answer:Scrap the seed mix at once and get him on pellets with vitamin C but without seeds, nuts, crunchy bits or colored garbage. Fresh pelleted chow has all the C he needs, seed mixes do not have any (well, almost none). You will need to start with a bowl of your feed with pellets mixed in. Each day, add more pellets and no more seed mix so that the whole bowl is pellets by about day 10.

Your problem is that he never learned to eat greens as a young pup. Guinea pigs are by nature very conservative about what they eat and if they don't learn that something is good by watching mom eat it, they are really reluctant to try it. We had an orphaned sow that I dropper fed because mom died giving birth and we had no sow on a litter to serve as a foster mom. She wouldn't eat regular greens until she went into breed and learned from the boar who was in with her.

The one green food that seems to be hard wired into guinea pig brains as "this is good stuff" without learning from another pig is grass. If you clip grass from a place that has no pesticides, exhaust fumes or dog/cat soil, I almost guarantee that your pig will eat it. We have never had a pig not eat grass in 40 years raising pigs. Even my orphan girl ate it within seconds the first time I put it in her cage!


Answer:It's not horrid that he won't eat his veggies just try giving him some vitamin c in a different form. hope i helped!!!

Answer:Their like children, it takes them a while to adjust to other foods they've never tried and especially because they're picky. One day don't feed him his regular food and just put veggies, fruits, etc in his dish. He'll eventually get hungry and give it a try. Do this for about a week so he actually eats them the first time. If he likes it he'll continue wanting it. My guinea pig would go crazy for them. She'd grab the carrot and run under her log house lolz. They also have treats with vitamin C and water drops with vitamin C.

P.s. If he likes lettuce only feed it to him often. It can give him diarreah and get him very sick.

Hope this helps.

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Is it ok if your dog lick you on your face?

March 27th, 2010 admin No comments

well, i play with my dog and he always lick me on my face..


Answer:I don't think that there is anything wrong with people that let their dog(s) lick their face. :)

Under the chin one time once in a while is all that I can bear, personally. The face (especially the lips) are off limits for me. If I get 'surprise' lick on the face, I don't freak out, I just turn my head away and they get the point.


Answer:Thats your personal choice.

I dont let my dog lick my face becasue i think its nasty. Though my friend doesnt mind and he licks his face like it taste really good!


Answer:My dogs are not allowed to lick me because they use their tongues for toilet paper.

Answer:Yea, that's one of my favorite parts of my day

Answer:It's ok for me.I let my dog give me kisses on the face whenever she wants!

How is the horse economy?

March 27th, 2010 admin No comments

I'm planning on attending a horse school for horse training and management to learn all about breeding and training and having my own ranch etc. I was just wondering those of you who have your own places like this, how is the economy right now for that industry, for I hear it's horrible, but I see horses being sold left and right here in Minnesota. Also do you think that it will pick up in like 4 years by the time I graduate or get worse?

just looking for opinions for those of you who breed and train horses for profit. Thanks!


Answer:If you're buying a horse, the horse economy is great as you can find a very nice, registered and well-trained horse with great bloodlines for a very low price.

However, if you are selling and need to turn a profit…good luck. It kind of depends on what breed you're interested in…around here (Central KY) the only thing making money right now are Thoroughbreds.

If you are wanting to raise, train and sell QH's, TWH's, Saddlebreds or pleasure horses, this is not a good time to get into the business. I went to the Tattersall's auction last month and saw top quality registered TWH stock going for $1500 and less….mostly less and much, much less I might add. With the horse slaughterhouses being closed, there is no competition in the market. This holds true in NC, too, where some of family lives. Horses are not in high demand right now, but the number of horses available is high. Supply and Demand is backwards right now, that's why we see and hear about so many horses starving to death. People cannot afford to keep them and they can't sell them, but they need to get something for them….make sense?

Anyway, I would not suggest getting into the horse industry for breeding and sales purposes….now training, that might be okay.


Answer:The lower end is in the toilet (horses under 2500 dollars) The middle is about 50% (2500 to 25,000) The upper end is fine (25,000 up) But who knows what things will be like in 4 years? As for me, I am not breeding any horses this year. With the economy and the new laws in california about 'slaughter' there are to many horses right now.

As for making a profit in horses; You can make a million dollars, but you need to start with 2 million ! : (

Just some free advice about your education : Major in something that will make some money and minor in equine studies. You will be able to enjoy your horses; horses will be your love and not your work.


Answer:As a person with a MS in Resource Economics and in the TWH business, I would not recommend getting into the business. I did make money last year and will likely make a profit this year, BUT I do it as a side business in retirement and came into the business with a paid for farm and breeding stock. If I had mortgage payments or need for operating cash flow, I'd be swimming in red ink.

The great horses are still selling for six figures (but not as much as before) but the good local show horse that sold for 10-20K five years ago are now often free to good home to maybe 5K. All in all it costs me about 5K from breeding to ready to go to the training barn at 18mo. Right now, I'm lucky as I have a great blood line that is in demand and my ROI is less than 5%.


Answer:not very great. it's like ours. My mom's friend does breeding and she can't really sell the foals and horses. The horses just keep taking up the fields.

Answer:Great

Answer:I know a TON of people who are trying to sell horses or ranches because they just can't afford them anymore. Since I got the two horses I have now (3 years ago), sweet feed has more than tripled in price. I board mine, and almost every single boarding stable around here has raised it's prices. For awhile I was paying more for pasture board than I ever had for a stall before. I had to move mine because it just got too expensive. I know very little about economics, but from what I'm seeing, I'd say the simple answer to your question is it's pretty bad.

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Why does ones seamonkeys not want to play anymore?

March 27th, 2010 admin No comments

sorry if i sound like a inbred cactus, english not my first language. not my fault. sorry. the seamonkeys, they just sink to the bottom of the cup. even when one blows bubbles in there with a straw, like one used to, they just twitch a little bit and the float back to the bottom

WHAT IS GOING ON?

DO THEY HATE ME?

are they having an orgy at the bottom of my cup? how does one make them stop?

one doesn't want more babies.

one peed in the cup once, but i drank it all back up. so it okay.

peace, god bless, go to church, god loves one.


Answer:One word: troll.

Answer:I could tell because you weren't consistant with your "ones." And the whole peeing in a cup thing? Really?

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Answer:you drank your own wee, yeah sure.

get back to your cave

Is plastic bad to put in rat cages?

March 27th, 2010 admin No comments

Plastic is fine to have in rat cages, however it is not okay to put your rat in a plastic cage. You will probably notice that your rat will chew on plastic but thats alright. Rats need to gnaw on things to grind their teeth down because their teeth are always growing. Most of the time they wont swallow it either just chew on it and let the pieces fall to the ground.


Answer:Yes, plastic could make them very sick if ingested. If you get to know your rats and discover that they dont chew, than it would be ok to have a few plastic items in there. Contrary to popular belief, rats do not need things to chew to keep their teeth down. That is what their teeth grinding is for. The only rats who need things to chew on for their teeth health are ones that have improperly lined up or damaged teeth.

Answer:nahh .. i have little houses for my two rats made from plastic and theyre finee .. but if yu notice that yur rats are like eating the plastic? yeah take it out of the cage cuz that cant be good for them

Answer:A plastic litter box is fine, plastic bag, no. They will eat it and get sick.

How do you train a puppy?

March 27th, 2010 admin No comments

I'm going away to College and I'll be living in an apartment with my best friend. We're moving in in 6 months. I have a one year old Cat that will be joining us and she has a puppy that is about the same age. The two get along fine so that's not a problem. The problem is that her puppy is completely untrained!

-It urinates and poops where ever it wants to.

-It is always jumping up on people when they come in the door and when they are sitting on the couch.

-It steals table scraps.It doesn't matter if you dropped it on the floor or just left it sitting out this dog will take it.

-It barks insanely when anyone comes in the door and continues to bark for well over 15 minutes after the person has been in the house.

-It runs insessantly and knocks things over.

-It nips.

- It just plain doesn't listen. It doesn't know to sit, to stop, you call it and it doesn't answer.

I do know that this is not the dog's fault. It is it's owners fault for not taking the time to train their dog properly. She didn't get any information on how and gave up when it got too hard. It's a **** zhu (sp?)/ Terrie mix, if the breed makes any difference.I don't want my room mate to have to get rid of her dog because I know she loves it, it just has to be trained so that we can have a functional household.

My question is: Are there any techniques to help train this puppy that are simple, easy and friendly towards the dog? What/how is a good way to start donsidering the dog is already a year old?


Answer:Wow, honestly wow, where does one even start answering this question without writing a novel. Personally If you were me I'd have a talk with the roommate, first I'd say your dog is a nightmare that needs training, if you aren't willing to work with me on training your dog then I cannot be your roommate or the dog has to go.

Tackle one behavior at a time so as not to overwhelm yourself. Start with housebreaking this dog, being that it's a year old and you have a year's worth of bad habits to break it'll take a while, the dogs owner must be willing to follow the exact same training methods and to stick with not get lazy and not regliously take this dog outside to potty, and trust me it'll be very hard to do because this dog thinks the house is it's toilet not outside so reassociating the outside with potty will take time and a lot of patience to retrain. Also don't punish or yell when he goes in the house all you will do is reinforce this bad behavior and it will continue.

Then work on his jumping up by ignoring him when you come home, ditto for his owner, both must ignore until he stops jumping and is calm, then you greet and give attention but calmly and quietly or he'll jump again, if he does stop and walk away. Visitors must also work on ignoring him when they come in no talk,touch or eye contact. Now, when he barks, clap your hands say THANK YOU, loudly when he stops say good boy and reward (hopefully hes very treat motivated) when guests enter they are to ignore him, if he continues barking he is to be removed from the room and placed in a bedroom (preferably his owners room) when the dog goes quiet he can come out again, he barks he gets removed (this will take time he has to learn that barking gets him removed).

If he's running in the house all the time he's not getting enough exercise. Exercise can cure a lot of "issues" remember a tired dog sleeps, a sleeping dog doesn't get into trouble, take him out and let him run his butt off.

Stealing food train him the "leave it" command and don't leave food around where he can get it, he's a dog.

I suggest picking up books on obedience training, using positive reinforcement, a dog that is food motivated is very easy to train, use cooked sliced hot dogs and keep them in a bag in the fridge, work every day on each issue but keep training short. The housebreaking is to be done every day all day.

I've attached websites for housebreaking I suggest you pick up books on training, I do recommend the Total Idiots Guide to Positive Dog Training, easy to read and will show you where you can easily go wrong with your training. Also watch It's Me or The Dog on Saturday's with Victoria Stillwell she uses positive reinforcement training and tackles many of the issues you are experiencing.

However, if your roommate is not willing to work on retraining her dog to follow rules boundaries and limitations and to potty outside and not jump or bark at guests then I suggest you tell her that you will under no circumstances be living with her. This dog will make you miserable, you will resent it and you will resent her even more for being a lazy owner who neglects her dog. Tell her the dog is not happy being the way he is, dogs crave routine and they crave structure which he has none of.

Good luck


Answer:She needs to sign up for an obedience class, now. That will teach her how to train her dog.

If she doesn't get her dog under control I can pretty much guarantee that your living situation (and possibly your friendship) will not last much past move-in day.


Answer:Look here

http://puppytrainingandcare.blogspot.com…

or here

http://puppytrainingandcare.com/scrap-bo…

there is a wealth of information about training


Answer:Ohh well umm maybe u could take him to a trainer!!?!?!?!?

Answer:The training should have started the day the puppy came into your friend's home. But there IS hope. Consider giving your friend a gift certificate to a reputable trainer, maybe you could ask your vet or other friends that have dogs for recommendations. Since you will be sharing an apartment, you could offer to pay part of the training fee as a goodwill gesture.

Answer:This is way too much to fix within the confines of Yahoo Answers, but going to obedience classes will give her the tools she needs to get started. I would suggest that you go together, as you will both be living with the dog and will both need to be on the same page with discipline and rewards. Additionally, check out or buy a couple of books on dog behavior and training. They're a great source to give you solutions for dealing with everyday problems. Just make sure the author has actual experience training dogs. Finally, convince your friend to buy a crate for the dog and research proper crate training. This will help immensely with the initial move-in, and will alleviate a lot of the house-breaking issues if done properly.

Here's a link to help with crate training… http://www.perfectpaws.com/crt.html

Edit*** this link is even better http://www.humanesociety.org/animals/dog…


Answer:to potty train the dog - get a crate for it. the crate should be big enough for the dog to stand up, and to turn around, but no more space!! this is important. keep the dog in the crate at all times. only take it out to eat and to go outside to the bathroom. take it out every hour, on the hour. once it goes outside, put a word to it, and every time they go outside, say that word. that way, the dog understands that the word means going outside.

to teach it to be quiet/stop nipping - put it on its leash. have a person come over. if the dog keeps barking or nipping, then take it away from the room and put it in a bathroom or some other small space away from he people. it can come out once it has been quiet for 3 seconds. it will learn that to be in the room they must be quiet and not nip. this will work for any behavior that you do not like.

to teach it to be nice when someone is at the door - when a person knocks at the door, get the dog to sit and be quiet. to teach them to sit, hold out a treat to them, but they can't get it until their butt touches the floor. as soon as that happens, say sit and give the treat. do this at the front door, and keep their attention. as soon as it is calm and quiet, let the person in. if they jump all over them, then they go right back outside. they only stay in the house if the dog is quiet and not jumping.

to teach it not to steal food - put it in its crate when you are eating. this is the simplest most efective way.

to teach it its name - call the name. if they look at you, give the treat. once they look away, call the name again. if they look, give the treat. the will learn that if they look at you when you call their name, they get food.

you can also go into any petstore and ask about pet training classes.

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What do I do about my cat

March 27th, 2010 admin No comments

My cat wasabi through a tantrum yesterday when I went to work. My mom and cousin told me that as soon as I left, she started scratching the door and yowling then started scratching the furniture before finally pooping all over a pair of my pants. I think she was mad at me for leaving her but I can't take her with me and she isn't left alone for long during the day either. What do i do?


Answer:First things first….Cats don't have tantrums that's just separation anxiety.

You obviously didn't leave it with enough thing to be able to occupy it's self……Did you?

Try buying a large scratching post on different levels and put it in the same room in the house, they're great!

Leave a few toys scattered around the room from the pet shop.

Keep a litter tray in the room.

I hope this has helped you.

Good luck.

:-)

Oh and one last thing; Don't confine your cat to just one room let it roam the house freely and keep blinds up and curtains open with clear windowsills as a window can be great stimulation for any cat as it gives them a chance to have a look at the outside world. (If your cats a house cat that is.)

If your cat isn't a house cat then why not get a cat flap installed?

:-)

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I dunno if one of my budgies in my bird room has scally face or not please help?

March 27th, 2010 admin No comments

one of my cock budgies i think could have scaly face but im not sure so ill tell you what i can see and see if any of you can help.

like under his beak he has like a layer of skin which is attached just under his beak but when u lift up the skin it really smells bad the layer of skin though has feathers growing from it and one of his eyes have a little like Circle round them were theres no feathers but its been like this for weeks and nothings changed i have had to take it out of the avery due to the other birds were trying to fight it. also he keeps shutting his eyes i don't know if hes sleeping or not can any one help me find out what to do ill be giving the top rating for the best answer


Answer:From your description, it doesn't sound like your budgie has scaly face. I've had a budgie with scaly face and I can describe to you what it looks like. The area near the beak and cere will have a honeycomb-like appearance, with small spots of missing feathers. A budgie with scaly face doesn't have any odor to it. Also, a budgie with scaly face doesn't sleep any more than usual. Your budgie sounds very stressed, ill, and in need of an avian vet. Take your budgie to an avian vet for a diagnosis and treatment.

Answer:II would take the bird to an avian vet. If you bird has an has an area that is smelling that indicates an infection. Without care it wont heal. The bird may be in pain or feeling very unwell. If the other were attacking him it also indicates that he is sick & weak. Birds dont usually smell bad so this is worrying. Please al least speak to your vet to get some good advice.

Answer:He's fine this is a common occurrence and should get better in the next 2-3 months. When he closes his eyes he's just sleeping and it's nothing to worry about!

Which is better labrador or alsation?

March 27th, 2010 admin No comments

i need 2 know


Answer:i have a labrador.. and i will say a labrador is best for me.. they r d most afectionate dogs u vl eva find.. but it depends u know.. some other breed might be good for u.. and u havent mentioned anything abt wat kinda breed u want.. but for me its the labrador retriever…

Answer:Better. There is no better. Why don't you get yourself a Beagle. They are lovable creatures. I think mass media is behind the labrador obsession. The golden retreaver pup is used in thousands of ads and this makes all the other dogs look, well, like they are not as good. I think all dogs are good. Love is blind. I am I love all doggins.

Answer:Better? There's no better. They're different breeds.

Whichever dog is better for you will depend on your lifestyle.

For me, GSDs are 'better'.


Answer:Better for what?

Crate training vs. long periods of time?

March 27th, 2010 admin No comments

Here is my dilemma. I am going to have a Dachshund puppy. The first three days he will be with me 24/7, but for a week, he might have to be alone for 8 hours. After that week, my wife will work from home, and the puppy won't be alone again. I want to crate train my puppy, but I know that the crate is not intended for that long period of time. I was thinking that for that week, I buy a playpen, and put the crate inside the playpen with the bed inside, so the puppy learns that the crate is his house. I would like to know other suggestions, or what you think about this idea.


Answer:First option, can you delay the pickup for another week? This would be best.

If not, it's certainly doable to leave the puppy alone for that long, with the full understanding that potty training will be set back and you will have messes to deal with.

Don't leave the puppy in the crate for more than x hours (where x = age in months), your idea of open-door crate inside playpen/behind baby gate is the best way to go. Leaving the puppy in the crate for too long will force it to eliminate in the crate and that will be ridiculously difficult to correct later on.

Get the puppy used to the crate IMMEDIATELY upon bringing it home, use the crate for the drive home from the shelter/breeder. Put a dirty t-shirt of yours in there, put treats in there to get the puppy to explore, feed the puppy in the crate. Do not spend the first three days, 24/7, with the puppy on your lap - it will set him up for a traumatic shock when you leave on the fourth day.

Tip from personal experience: I don't know if doxies are climbers (my guess would be no but not sure) but my little gal could climb out of her x-pen at 8 weeks. It took her about 5 minutes to figure it out and less than 60 seconds to escape each time after that.


Answer:that is a great idea!! i would also come home at your lunch break to take him outside for the bathroom so he doesn't make a mess inside the house.

Answer:After a week on his own the puppy will think that it's O.K. to pee and poo in the house, consequently it will take a long time to break this habit. It is impossible for him to hold on for any length of time and leaving him in a crate will be counter productive, he will think that this is his toilet.In addition to this he will be lonely and frightened. I think that you should ask the breeder to hang onto the puppy until your wife starts working from home.

He will need to be taken into the garden every hour, after he drinks or eats and when he wakes up. You must be with him when he performs outside and praise him when he does so. He must be taken out just before you go to bed and you should try to wake up and take him out twice during the night.

I don't like the idea of using a crate and I am a heavy sleeper. My puppies sleep in my laundry room until they are toilet trained and I leave newspaper on the floor. In spite of this my puppy's were toilet trained when they were very young.

How you train your dog not to pee inside the house?

March 27th, 2010 admin No comments

i have this problem.. he is just a puppy and its hard to train him to pee outside or pee in the newspaper or bathroom.. so how you do it? how they learn to pee in right place?


Answer:Watch him when he's loose

Crate him when you can't watch him

Feed on a regular schedule

Take him to the area you want him to potty at least every three hours

praise him when he does the right thing

Try and catch him literally in the act and then pick him up and take him to his potty area.

If he goes and you don't see it, clean it really well and forget it, it was an opportunity lost, resolve to watch him better next time.


Answer:Monitor the puppy's water and food intake and put the puppy outside about 30min after eating/drinking. Also if you notice your puppy sniffing around and it looks like it is about to squat down then take it outside. Take your puppy outside after it wakes up as well. If you see your puppy using the bathroom in the wrong place and you catch it in the act then you should interrupt the behavior (a loud 'No!' usually does the trick) and immediately put the dog outside. Also whenever your dog uses the bathroom outside give it lots of praise. Eventually the dog should start going there on it's own.

Answer:Amazingly enough, the concept of potty training a puppy isn't radically different from potty training a human baby…

It's a PROactive approach — You place the baby on his/her 'toilet' *BEFORE* he/she is actually relieving him/herself and give it some pleasing feedback while the process is occurring.

Praising words using a pleasant tone of voice, presenting toys or other things the child finds valuable (maybe a treat such as a piece of fruit) are some examples of positive feedback.

You repeat this process again and again until

a) it's become a habit

b) the child understands exactly what is wanted from him/her

c) the child has developed good bladder control

d) the child has learned to initiate the behaviour without your help

Same concept for puppies.

You somehow guide the puppy to the 'right' place and play the waiting game until you observe the desirable behaviour happening, then give it positive feedback.

If you have something to offfer that the puppy really wants more than it can find on its own (e.g. treat, toy, pleasant activity such as playing a game), he would simply follow you (you could say, you're luring him). Another option is, simply pick up the puppy and bring it to the desired place and placing it down again.

Keep repeating/practicing the desired behaviour - as above a) through d)

Don't be surprised if it takes quite a while until the puppy really understands what exactly you are so exited about.

This is because while you are mainly thinking about rewarding for the actual LOCATION — the puppy may very well associate his ACTION (which is just peeing/pooping) with the presented reward/feedback.

Therefore, peeing/pooping are the reinforced behaviours — NOT necessarily WHERE this action takes place, so he may pee on the legs of the coffee table and expect getting a reward.

If success is what you want, it's essential that he practices this behaviour in the 'right' place and preferably never in the 'wrong' place, because relieving oneself is largely self-reinforcing (gets stronger even without external rewards).

Avoid frustration by understanding that misunderstandings between two different species is just a fact of life.

Heck,… two human beings speaking the same language cannot even communicate without misunderstandings and unintentionally insulting one another!

Forget about old-wives-tales claiming your puppy is trying to be alpha, trying to out-dominate you, expressing resentment, or whatever crap some blue meanies shovel.

In order to prevent mishaps, it's your job to try to predict when the pup needs to go.

Young puppies have very limited bladder control (just like human babies). That should improve a lot when they are about 5 to 6 months old, but of course, each puppy is an individual and may develop a bit faster or slower than others. You're lucky, it takes much longer for human babies ;-)

At first, it could be every hour or so, and right after a meal or drink.

If you cannot supervise all the time, your best bet is to limit the pups roaming space by locking him in a smaller room or pen. Place the newspapers as far away from the pup's bed and water/food bowls as possible — pups have an innate tendency of avoiding to mess near their food supply and sleeping area.

Finally, after following the above, this last paragraph should be redundant, but I mention it anyway because there is no shortage of sadistic advice out there.

Potty training should never be a REactive approach.

You do not 'wait' until after the baby has messed up and then REACT by screaming, scolding, smacking, kicking or hurting the baby in some other way, such as pushing the baby's face into its own feces or urine.

Any decent person wouldn't do that to a puppy either.

And haha, let me fill the gaps for the smartas$es out there — yes… praising/rewarding your dog while he's doing the right thing *IS* a way of reacting too — almost everything we say is relative. But what I meant with "reactive approach" is reacting after the fact and in an aversive manner.


Answer:There are few steps involved in house training your pet

1. buy doggy pads (found in your local pet store)

2. place them where your dog chooses to urinate the most

3. if the dog is found doing the wrong thing, scold him lightly, but do not use physical force or deafening yells.

4. reward your dog bu giving him treats whenever he is urinating in the right places

5. eventually, move the pads outside and you dog will know that outside is the only place that he can urinate without breaking your rules.

6. once your dog has successfully been house trained, do not forget to reward him greatly.


Answer:crate training.

taking the dog out every 2 hours outside.

when your gone crate the dog make sure it has enough room to move.

when you come home let the dog outside.

say "good" when it does its buisness outside.

eventually they just get it.

ive taken a dog that has pooped in the house and sat it outside and sat there and watched it till t went and when it did i said "good boy" then let him in.

he got it real quick


Answer:Take your puppy outside for a bathroom break every one to two hours during the day. Plan a middle-of-the-night potty run for young puppies.

Use the same "elimination station" each time. Dogs develop a preference for pooping and peeing in the same spots. Make it easier on yourself by choosing, right from the start, the place close by where you want him to go.

Here's more info.

http://lnk.nu/dogtime.com/ry4.html


Answer:doggie pads, they sell them at your locat pet mart

Is my cat mad at me it was an accident!!?

March 27th, 2010 admin No comments

i was walking up the stairs and my cat followed me and when i got upstairs my foot got caught in the vacuum wires and it made my foot spazz and it flew up as i tripped but my heal hit my cat in the mouth. i thought he was ok cuz he didnt make a noise but he ran downstairs usually he follows me everywhere ad now hes avoiding me is he mad? how can i show him it was an accident?


Answer:I don't think he's mad at you. He sounds like he's scared. He might think he did something wrong that made you hurt him. If he's not physically injured, then the best thing to do is to leave him alone for awhile. Don't seek him out or try to touch him until he comes back to you. Usually, they're over it in time for the next meal!

How long ago did this accident happen? If it was earlier today, then he probably just needs some time by himself to calm down. Cats are forgiving of accidents if their owners have been mostly kind to them. If this happened more than a couple of days ago and he's still avoiding you, then he might be injured and need to go to the vet.


Answer:I doubt he's mad at you, but he's probably a little scared, and may be in pain. Go find him; cuddle him talk reassuringly to him, and gently check his mouth to make sure he didn't cut the inside of his lip or (unlikely but possible) break a tooth. If you can't see anything wrong, he should get over it after a few hugs and kisses.

Why has my gold fish got a lump above its eye? it swims and eats no problem and the other fish it lives with?

March 27th, 2010 admin No comments

is fine


Answer:If the lump has not always been there, it means there is something wrong with the fish. It could either be an ulcer or some kind of parasite. Either one could eventually kill the fish. you need to medicate the fish before it dies or spreads it to the other fish.

My cat is my best friend and he is dying HELP!!?

March 27th, 2010 admin No comments

My cat loves me and I love him so much, but he is dying. he is on two medications and wont eat. I know I should take him to get put to sleep. but I just can't bring myself to it. I had another cat like this. the day we took him was the worst of my life. but he is withering away and I am going to miss him so much

what should I do =(


Answer:I know what you mean. I had three cats, but one of them had cancer.. so my family had to put her down. But i was 5 hours away on a school trip when they put her down. I was upset for days when i got home. I cried all the time, and my kitten (the cat we put down was my parents but still loved her) always came and cuddled with me while i cried. Eventually i just spent most my time playing with my kitten and cuddling with him, and the pain of losing my other cat went away. I mean i still miss her to this day, but she was in a lot of pain and she was a tough kitty. She fought till the very end. She was only 6 years old, but she was the toughest cat i had ever seen. She had cancer for a year and a half. And fought that whole time. Get another cat when your ready, and and having another living creature to take care of will help, trust me, if i didn't have my kitten to look after when my other cat died, i wouldn't know what to do. But he helped me get over the loss. We burried her in my backyard and i made a little tomb stone for her by painting a piece of slate. I still cry sometimes when i look at it, but every morning in the summer time i sit back there and think about all the memories of her while looking at pictures of her.

Answer:What is the disease he is being treated for?

What medications is he taking?

How long has it been since he last ate?

How old is your cat?

If you can answer those questions in an update of your message, I might be able to let you know if euthanasia is called for.

Many conditions are treatable, if the person wants to treat them. We have had four diabetic cats in the past 10 years - one was Simon who was diagnosed when he was about 13 years old. The other three were diabetic when we adopted them - we knew that they were diabetic when we adopted them.

In the case of two of them, they would have been killed if we had not adopted them because their owners did not want to treat the diabetes and thought that it was not possible to treat them and the treatment would be painful and the cat would suffer.

None of our diabetic cats have ever suffered because of the disease or the treatment.

Update your question and tell use more about your cat's condition and the medication.


Answer:One of the hardest drives I ever did was on that final journey for my beloved cat, to give her release. While that day was terrible for me, I look back and know that my cat knew I loved her, and she went to sleep very peacefully, never to have problems again.

When the quality of their life is no longer there, and without eating, they can suffer organ shutdown, then release is the kindest "gift" we can give, but the hardest thing we are called upon to do.

Think back on the good times you had together, and know what you are doing is in his best interests, and putting his interests ahead of yours is usually difficult, but the best thing to show him you love him.


Answer:Keeping a cat in pain because you can't handle it is a poor excuse.

Is syringe feeding able to help him? Would a feeding tube help? You don't give us any information on what's wrong with him.

If he really IS dying andnothing can be done, then make the call. Having him be in agony for 3 or 4 more days because you're not able to face things is not right.


Answer:Sounds like your cat's quality of life has deteriorated. He is suffering. I know you want him to live forever but unfortunately we always seem to outlive our pets. Are you keeping him around for you? I know it's hard, but you already know the best thing to do is to take your cat in & end his suffering. See if there is a pet grief group in your area or even search the internet. Google "Rainbow Bridge". We had to take our dog, Buddy, in last July to be put to sleep. He went very peacefully. We brought him home & buried him in the backyard. (Told the vet we were going to take him to a pet crematorium.) It's hard to lose a friend you've had for a long time. My prayers are with you. I know you will do what's right for your best friend.

Answer:I am so very sorry that you are having to go through this with your cat. You didn't say how old you are so I am going to talk to you as an adult. When we choose to love our cats, we have a responsibility to care for them and to do what is in their best interest. It may hurt an awful lot to think about putting your loving cat to sleep, but with love comes the fact that you do not want him/her to suffer. The grief is the result that we will be alone and we will miss our sweet cats. The pet that we love so much will no longer be sick and suffering and as I believe, will be in Heaven waiting for me to arrive and running and playing with all the other animals. I just recently had to put my litttle girl down as she was dying of cancer. It hurts so much that some days I don't think I can go on. I have found an online support group that also helps with preparing yourself for what you need to expect in the coming days or weeks. It is called aplb.com and I hope that you will spend all the time you can with your kitty. The sadness never goes away, but it does get easier with time. I wish you love and strength.

Answer:I am so sorry for you i know how you feel :( You born young you grow old you have to die, i know it's so hurtfull but everyone's life is going to end, even of a cute innocent cat.

Answer:I can't tell you how sorry I am.

I just went through this exact thing in December. He was my best friend, the love of my life. He was like my baby because we don't have kids…and are now to old to. He suddenly came down with FIP, which is just awful if you know about it. I spent a couple thousand on vet bills trying to diagnose and treat something that when diagnosed finally, is completely untreatable. I stayed by him almost all day, I feed him with a feeding syringe you can get at a pet store. I made a syringable slurry of food and water w/vitamins in a food processor I bought for it. This went on for over a month. Finally he was having too much trouble walking, then started having seisures one night, then I knew it was time. I could'nt have him going through seisures. I took him myself with my husband very early in the morning. We held him in our arms while he went to sleep, kissing him and whispering to him.

I wanted to be there for him to the end. Then we buried him in the backyard in a beautiful large painted flower pot and I'm planting flowers over his grave this spring.

And I disagree about going right out and getting a new one, give yourself some time to greive. We lit a candle with his picture for a month afterward. We greived hard, I'm crying telling you this. I miss him desperately. He was my cuddlebug too.

You'll never forget him, you'll never stop loving him, but let him go. You'll know when you need to do it. You wouldn't want him to suffer. Best tio you. Write if you wish, I'll cry with you.

T


Answer:I am sorry!

I had to do this with my cat. What you can do is ask a friend to take him in for you. that way you don't have to do it.

Just think that it is best for the kitty so he doesn't have to suffer. And that you are doing the right thing. (it will make you feel a bit better) Then go pick out a very cute kitten from the shelters and it will keep you occupied on the kitten and not the old cats death.

Hope this Helps!

One thing is that medication can make it worse for some cats. And if the vet is giving it something and it is not the disease he thought it was it could make it worse that way.

Can you/should you ever clean your cat?

March 27th, 2010 admin No comments

We have an adult male cat who is white with black patches. I know cats are supposed to clean themselves, but his white fur is looking very yellow-y brown-ish and clearly he's not very clean. Should we clean him, and if so, how?


Answer:Clean him in a sink of warm water and for soap use Dawn dish soap.

It is the best for cats because it is gentle.

That's what they use in the animal rescues and animal shelters.

When you ar going to give your cat a bath tips:

If you cat hates the water then you just have to hold him by the scruff ( it doesn't hurt them unless you hang them from it) and most cats don't move. And if he does move then try to keep him in the water.

1.) Make sure the water is not to hot or not to cold.

2.) Don't put more in there then if he is standing and it gets half way up his belly.

3.) DO Not get his face wet. Ecpecialy water in his ears ( It will give him ear mites)

4.) place the saop on hime (just a few drops)

5.) Try to do it as fast as you can (but not to fast where it will scare your cat)

6.) Rinse him of quickly

7.) The worst part! Make sure you have a towel right next to you for when you take him out of the water you need to wrap himin it as fast as you can and try to dry his hair as fast as you can (cats hate this part so you wana hurry!) If you don't try him and think he will go dry himself it will be very bad for your cat. (DO Not use a BLOWDRYER!)

Make sure you bring him in anice warm room or he will freeze and get sick.

9.) Your cat is clean and not so happy yet.

10.) Your cat is completely happy

I've had a lot of experience trying to dry tabbys (which is hard so it should be better with your cat) to. It's not completely fun unless they are fine with the water. One cat i have is okay with the water but all my cats have always hated the towel. So remeber be quick!

Hope this Helps!


Answer:I would give him a bath. Cats are not supposed to be bathed often (which is ok because they're not that fun to bathe in the first place) Make sure you have a good oatmeal shampoo, maybe with aloe vera in it. Something that is very easy on their skin. Put a little bit of water in a tub or sink and try to be fast but effective. Make sure you cut nails first just in case. I usually hold their front legs together and try to get it done with fast, and make sure you towel dry them a little bit afterward to prevent them from getting cold. They might be mad at you for a little while, but they're get over it. I have 4 cats lol and they hate bathtime, but they always get a treat afterwards.

Answer:My cats are so used to being bathed lol. My senior cat is 11 years old and she doesn't even put up a fight. To tell you the truth I think she actually likes it lol. I don't bath them often, they stay indoors, but they're also long haired and I find that giving them some sort of conditioning bath really helps brushing their coat. My 11 year old cat, if the longest haired cat I've ever seen and if I don't keep up with her brushing she gets mats. Sometimes the best way to get them lose is a nice oatmeal conditioning bath and I comb them gently while she is in there.

Answer:Cats do clean themselves however, if they're older or slightly over weight.. they sometimes can't groom themselves properly and clean everywhere. So you should go to a store and buy some cat shampoo and give him a bath every once in a while. They do not like water so this may have to be a 2 person 'adventure'. If you notice dandruff on his back its due to him being slightly over weight or he is not properly cleaning himself. Hope this helps!

Answer:We used to do our cat every 6 months or so. I recommend wearing a long rubber glove and holding his front legs with the gloved arm. Then wash him as quick as you can. (The cat will do that back leg kicking thing and fight with you - which is why I recommend a glove).

Have a towel handy and dry him as quick and throughly as you can - he will hate it. If you have the radiators on it shouldn't matter too much if he isn't completely dry. He will find a warm spot and dry off, but don't let him out until he is completely dry.

Good luck!!


Answer:i bathe my orange manx cat every two to three months or so, hes very active and an outdoor cat, so he catches the weirdest smells on him from time to time. I use cat shampoo i bought at the pet store and luke warm water. he fights and tries to claw but i just hold his paws and do it quick. It's funny he gets really angry when i wet his face so i only sprinkle it. Anyhow just bathe him with warm water and some kitty shampoo or any shampoo really. Make sure you close the door and hold his paws down, he will put up a fight.

Answer:I don't use water to give my cat a bath. I use a waterless shampoo made for cats. It's very easy to use, just spray on, rub in, towel dry, done. It's a lot easier than using water, and without all of the hassle. You won't be disappointed. Check out the site, just type in waterless shampoo in the search.

Answer:You could try bathing him, but if you can see he is uncomfortable then don't force him. What you could do is to sprinkle some corn starch in to his fur, and rub it around the brush him good.

This will help loosen dirt particles and will whiten his fur. And is also less stressful for the cat.


Answer:Pet Head makes a waterless cat shampoo, makes it so much easier to wash my cat, and i only do that about once a month, unless she's gotten into something she shouldn't and is really messy

Answer:If you ask your vet they should sell a pet shampoo that you could use. Or you can get a pet shampoo from some supermarkets.

Your cat isn't gonna like you very much for it but at least he'll be cleaner!


Answer:Could just be what the cat's colors have become. They are pretty good at cleaning themselves, but if you insist, I would say take it to a pet store and have them do it.

Answer:Unless he is de-clawed, leave it to the groomers. Seriously, cats will FIGHT when given a bath and it HURTS!!!

Is there a website in the UK I can find my Dog?

March 27th, 2010 admin No comments

Is there a website in the UK that I can find my puppy a playmate for my Dog??

would love to have a little friend for my dog to come around our house to play now and again.


Answer:Try Dogs Trust

#

Sorry I did not realise you were looking for a part-time playmate. Why not join a dog training club and mix with other dogs and people while training and having fun? Or start a group where you can all walk your dogs together?


Answer:No dogs in the neighbourhood? None of your friends have dogs? No one owns a dog or walks one in your area? No dog park?

Brits are famous for owning dogs, there must be someone in your area that's a suitable playmate for your dog.


Answer:RAPCA are always looking for new homes for there dogs , Just google it

How can you dye baby chicks?

March 27th, 2010 admin No comments

I want to dye my baby chick green because I named her GIR(like from Invader Zim). But I don't know how to dye her. Do I just use food dye?


Answer:From what I hear/seen most chicks are actually dyed before they hatch. As they inject the color into the egg, but some are also sprayed. The dye doesn’t have to be harmful, it all comes down to the type of dye that you use. And dyed chicks will develop just like ones that are not, and before you know it little white feathers will be popping through those colors.

Using food coloring is a very common practice (a dot on the head) used by poultry breeders to help distingue certain breeds, or gender from the other birds, and is harmless.

However, if you choose to dye the chick all the way, you do have a risk. Chicks for as long as they have down instead of feathers can’t stabilized body temperature (which is why they are kept in brooders with a moderated temperature) If a chick gets wet, you can throw it’s body temperature off, so if you must do it, do it in a warm environment, with warmed materials.

Best of luck with your little chick, and if you have any questions feel free to contact me via email,

Jamie/Rhode Runner


Answer:Food dye will be fine. It is harmless and as the feathers grow out it will revert to its normal colour.

And for any concerned 'animal lovers' I'd like an explanation of how dying a chick causes one iota of suffering.


Answer:You can safely dye chicks with Kool-aide. As they develop their adult feathers the dye will grow out.

Answer:Please don't dye her…It doesn't really matter if she's green or not.

If it really bothers you, change her name not her colour


Answer:TIGHT COW

Answer:make me a polka dot one!

How late can you give the CD/T shot to a pregnant goat?

March 27th, 2010 admin No comments

How late can you give the CD/T shot to a pregnant goat? My shipment will not come in till the 23 but my vaccine is coming today and I do not have any needles. My doe is due around April 11.


Answer:Are you just giving a booster or vaccinating her for the first time? A booster needs to be done at least 3 weeks before she kids for the immunity to pass to the kid. I you are vaccinating for the first time you have to vaccinate and then wait 3-4 weeks to booster.

A local feed store or tractor supply should carry syringes and needles.

It will not hurt to vaccinate the doe at any time but like I said the immunity will not pass to the kid. what you can do is get CD antitoxin. You can give 2-3 ccs orally at birth. Then inject 2-3 ccs into the kid every two weeks till they are 12 weeks and old enough to vaccinate. The antitoxin prevents overeating disease when given this way.

What should i do with a pigeon?

March 27th, 2010 admin No comments

i found it sitting below my car so i brought it home. its not an adult pigeon and its unable to fly. its also small in size compared to the other pigeons. what should i feed it? it also looks very scare.

help!!

.


Answer:leave it at the same place but first offer some water to drink.

If it is very small then it cann't survive without its parents.


Answer:Hi

How kind of you to rescue an injured animal.

If I were you, I would call your local vetinarian or the RSPCA asap. They will advise you on how to care for the bird, what to feed it etc, or whether it would be best for someone to come and pick it up from you.

Good luck


Answer:Unless specially certified it is unlawfull to possess wild game or non game animals. I hate to tell you this, but the american pidgeon is ALSO a PROTECTED species. Im not sure but that might be a felony.

Answer:I luuuuv racing pigeons.

i liek it nd they liek me 2

u shuld try it 1 time

if u want moar frnds then pigeons will b gud 4 u 2 have them


Answer:Should have left it where it was - no doubt its parents were somewhere nearby.

Answer:Cook it.

Good eats.

Gamey.


Answer:Keep it as a pet.

What is the best dry dog food?

March 27th, 2010 admin No comments

What do you think is the best dry dog food(for puppies)?


Answer:There's no one best food as different foods may work for one dog and not for another. The best food is the one that works for your dog, for your wallet, and is made with quality ingredients.

High Quality Foods:

Orijen- http://www.orijen.ca/orijen/about/

Natura (Innova, EVO, California Natural)- http://www.naturapet.com/

Blue Buffalo- http://www.bluebuff.com/

Merrick- http://www.merrickpetcare.com/

Canidae- http://www.canidae.com/

Solid Gold- http://www.solidgoldhealth.com/

Wellness Core- http://www.wellnesspetfood.com/dog_welln…

Natural Balance- http://www.naturalbalanceinc.com/

Taste of the Wild- http://www.tasteofthewildpetfood.com/

Chicken Soup for the Dog Lover's Soul- http://www.chickensoupforthepetloverssou…

Or go raw- http://www.dogguide.net/raw-diet-basics.…

http://www.dogfoodproject.com/index.php?…

http://www.dogfoodanalysis.com/dog_food_…


Answer:I have a palmy and he is about 5 months now. He loves Puppychow (I think its by Purina). At first, he couldn't chew it because it was too hard for him, but by like 2 months, was crunching away. Put it in water or warm milk and he/she will eat it like that too. But its good for them. Hope this helps.

Answer:go to the pet store and talk to a sales person about it. tell them about your puppy and talk about the right food for your puppy.

Answer:pedigree

Answer:A great resource for dog food is www.dogfoodanalysis.com

One Star Rated Dog Foods:

1.) Alpo

2.) Beneful

3.) Eukanuba

4.) Science Diet

5.) Iams

6.) Kibbles N Bits

7.) Pedigree

8.) Pro Plan

9.) Purina One

10.) Royal Canin

6 Star Rated Dog Foods:

1.) Orijen

2.) EVO

3.) Taste of the Wild

4.) Wellness Core

5.) Artemis Maximal Dog

6.) Blue Wilderness

7.) Go Natural Grain Free Endurance

8.) Horizon Legacy

9.) Instinct

The difference between the 1-Star foods and the 6-Star foods is that the 1-Star foods are commercial companies that use terrible products in their foods like corn which is undigestable for dogs, bi-products instead of real meat and artificial flavoring. The 6-Star foods use real meats as their main ingredients, real fruits and real vegetables. Go to www.dogfooodanalysis.com and read the ingredients for one of the 6-Star foods then read the ingredients for some of the 1-Star foods. Keep in mind that when a company lists "Chicken" as their main ingredient, that is misleading because they list the chicken by it's original weight not the amount that is actually put into the food. After taking off the fat, bones and water content, the meat in commercial brands ends up weighing about 20% of what it's listed as on the bag. In other words, it may be listed as the main ingredient, but in reality, it's a very minor ingredient. Usually, you will notice that corn meal is the second ingredient which ends up being the main ingredient and is also a harmful, undigestable product to dogs. What you will notice in the good foods is that they typically list two meat sources and two meat meals as their first 4 ingredients. The term "meal" is the important term in dog food because "meal" means that it's the meat after it has been dehydrated (which it needs to be to be put into a dry dog food). In other words, "meal" means the true amount of a product.

Example: Taste of the Wild 6-Star Dog Food

First Four Ingredients:

1.) Bison

2.) Venison

3.) Lamb Meal

4.) Chicken Meal

For comparison puroses, lets use Iams:

First Four Ingredients:

1.) Chicken (remember this is misleading due to how they go by the whole chicken not what they put in. Actual is 20% of this listed amount).

2.) Corn Meal (The actual main ingredient which is harmful to dogs).

3.) Ground Whole Grain Sorghum (Another grain filler).

4.) Chicken By-Product Meal (notice the "meal" is by-product meaning it is ground up beaks, bones and other parts that are deemed inappropriate for human consumption).

If you look at the two brands, the good brand starts with 4 kinds of meat, the bad brand has one meat source which is misleading, corn which is the main ingredient and is undigestable for dogs, a worthless grain and the parts of the chicken that are not meant for consumption. In other words, the ingredients are the cheapest thing the company could find.

In England how many dogs get abandoned each year?

March 27th, 2010 admin No comments

700 - 850 each year just in the uk


Answer:700 - 850 each year just in the uk

Answer:I think that would be very hard to say.

Not every abandoned dog is found.

What do i do if i milk a hamaster? i tried it on my hamster and white suffcame out is it milk or not?

March 27th, 2010 admin No comments

the hamster is a girl and is 3 years old


Answer:Animals can only produce milk if they have been or are pregnant.

Answer:I hope you are joking. That's cruel, poor little hamster.

Answer:why would you need to milk a hamster?

How can I tame a cat?

March 27th, 2010 admin No comments

A few days ago one of our outside cats had a litter of 5 and only 3 survived. I took them in because they were in the front yard, the mama was nowhere around and there was a fox walking throught the front yard and I didn't want him to get them. I had them inside about a day and a half and I was able to catch the mama yesterday and I put her in the carrier with them. The carrier is one of our bedrooms on the bed. I kept her closed in there with them for a few hours to let her calm down. Then I took the door off so she could get out and eat, drink and use the litter box. She has been an outside cat her whole life (she's about 2 yrs old) and I have never been able to gain her trust.

Everytime I go to look in the carrier to check on her and the babies she hisses at me. Understandably. But since 2 of her babies died, I need to be able to check on the kittens to make sure they're eating and not getting sick. How can I tame her so that I can be able to get the babies out of the carrier without her biting me?

Any other advice would be great


Answer:People keep saying "you cant tame an outside cat". Well, I can't say its a lie but I have actually tamed an outside cat.

It was kind of like the sitiuation you're in but she was pregnant. She'd get crazy and scratch me up like crazy.

To get the kittens out, do it when she's eating or busy and take the crate out of the room to do it.

Id just kept feeding her, get this stick with feathers at the end of it and started playing with her.

I'm pretty sure if you show her you're not going to hurt her, she'll gain your trust.

She may even gain your trust when your playing with the kittens as they get older.

Everything takes patience. Just don't let her out til she is calm and loving with you.

Also, if you're planning to name her, Patience actually sounds like a pretty name =)


Answer:Most likely and unfortunately, you won't. Feral cats are the worst and hardest to gain the trust of. I would say let it be. It's nature. Don't get attached and put everyone back outside.

Answer:You can not tame an adult feral cat. In order to like people kittens must have a lot of human contact at a critical age when they are young kittens. If they don't get it then they will never be comfortable around humans.

Answer:Having raised several feral cats myself I know how worried you must be, the answer is to be patient. Spend some time sitting in the room on the floor let her get used to you being in the room. Don't make eye contact with her, if she stares at you look away, also blink very slowly, both of these things tell a cat that you are not aggressive. If you can see that the kittens are suckling don't worry too much, as they strengthen they will probably venture out to see you. I know its hard but honestly patience pays off.

Answer:Her whole life has been turned upside down and she needs time to adjust. Don't force her, that will only stress her more. If you are really concerned about whether the kittens are ok, you should take the whole carrier, mama and kittens to a vet or the locale Humane Society. They can check them for you and do an assessment on the mother as well.

As for learning how to socialize the mama, contact the people in cat behavior at the link below. They are located in Milpitas, California but are willing to respond to questions from anywhere in the world.

Good Luck.


Answer:i tamed an outside cat… but she still lives outside because my mom wouldnt let it in… but she's in front of our door everytime i go outside now…

-

anyway, here's how I got it to trust me.. i kept seeing her near trying to eat food off our leashed dog… so i got her a separate plate… everyday, i put food outside for her but still didnt touch her…

-

after a while, i put the food in front of me and try to get the cat to eat it in front of me…

when she does eat it, i SLOWLY take my hand near her head to rub her…

i repeated the slowly rubbing her for days until she got comfortable around me…

-

just back off when you think it's going for a bite or a scratch! good luck!

Categories: wnsi Tags:

Why are fish in the ocean so stupid, they get into fishermans nets and don

March 27th, 2010 admin No comments

Many nets are designed to trap fish in a way that makes escape impossible. It doesn't make them stupid.


Answer:i guess that's because they get stuck inside the net, imagine you are a fish with small brains and a small hearth, you get stuck into the net , panic, try to escape but its not easy because you cannot think logically because you are only a fish. Eventually if you heart is weak you have an heart-attack of panic, ie you die of fear. Now think are those fishes stupid or just innocent? i mean they hav'n't got a swiss knife hidden under their scales to cut the net!

Answer:What makes you think they don't try to jump out?

They do try to jump out, but a well-designed net closes up around them so they can't all jump out.


Answer:they do

If my dog has a bladder infection?

March 27th, 2010 admin No comments

My 8 mo old chihuahua has a problem. Well I'll just put what just happened to sum it up. I let him outside after we just woke up. He went poo and ran around a bit. We were out for like 10 minutes. We came inside and started to play fetch- he comes running back with the mouse in his mouth, still half running starts peeing (and he seems embarrassed) then moves over by the shoes to finish with his leg up. he has had some other things that make it seem like he doesn't know he has to pee and he just cant hold it. No blood in his pee but it smells really bad. Now the thing is the vet said that just to find out what it is it will cost 180.00. Much more money that we have and we already have over 400 in this little guy. I really want to help him. Would a veterinary school do this for us with a discount or something? Banfield is just crazy with their prices. thanks.


Answer:Call around to other vets in the area. It should not cost $180 to diagnose a bladder infection. If it's just a simple infection, it shouldn't even cost that much to diagnose and treat. My Min Pin had a bladder infection last year- I believe my total bill for diagnosis and treatment was around $75. And my vet is among the more expensive in my area. Banfield and other corporate chain vets charge absurd prices for anyone that doesn't buy into one of their "plans". Vet schools often aren't any less than other veterinarians, and there aren't vet schools in most areas (I believe there are less than 30 in the whole USA), but you can call and ask what they would charge if there is one in your area.

Answer:Try a different vet. I think that $180 for a urine test is a bit steep.

Answer:Why not call a local experienced vet instead of going to Banfield? My vet charges $40 for an office visit. not sure what tests they will have to run, but I'm sure it won't be $180. Call the local animal shelter and find out who they recommend for a vet. Usually they are good people with reasonable prices. Call a couple of different vets. You don't say what the other $400 was for, but puppies are expensive. If your puppy indeed has a bladder infection there is not anything you can really do besides taking him to the vet and getting some anti-biotics. If you let it go, it will only get worse.

Answer:It is difficult to understand your question, particularly:

>>he has had some other things that make it seem like he doesn't know he has to pee and he just cant hold it. >> ?

There may be an element of submissive/excitement urination involved rather than a UTI.

Why not catch some fresh urine in a clean bottle (dish) and take it to the vet for a BASIC check that they can do there and then? It may only need a simple antibiotic to clear it up - or hopefully nothing at all.


Answer:1. banfields always nuts they wanted to clip my dogs nails to the veins those morons.

2. look for another vet if your concerned there is a problem.

we had a husky we thought was just plain mental that would run with one leg hiked and pee all over the place he was MENTAL but a great dog lol. the vet stated himself it was just the dog being excited it only cost us 60.00 to find out.

he only did this when excited and no matter how you look at it dog pee stinks. if you see blood or hes in obvious pain well then you do have some problem.

also you may consider a change in diet which is also what the vet recommended for him we changed to a better dog food for all of the dogs we had and while he still hiked his pee wasnt as bad nor was the poop

My puppy and bunny will they fight?

March 27th, 2010 admin No comments

I'm getting a 10 week old male yorkie pup in 5 days. I have a male dwarf bunny at home that acts like a dog. My bunny acts like a dog! He will come to you when he is called, and lays down when you pet him. The yorkie is such a sweet little puppy also; he loves other dogs and plays with almost anything. I am worried about what will happen if two of them get together. Will they be aggressive toward each other? Will one get hurt? Please help!!! Any advise or experience will help!!!


Answer:Ruh-Roh, you are using a backyard breeder or puppy mill! That means that this dog's temperament will be completely unknown and unstable.

Yorkies were bred to be hunters so there is no way in hell I would let one get near any small critter that *I* owned. How do you guys not know that? http://www.ytca.org

Thank you for supporting an unethical breeder!

Added: Really? A "well-respected breeder"? Michael Vick was well respected in many circles. So this "well-respected breeder" can show you 3-5 generations of OFA and CERF scores? She shows her dogs? She has an extensive contract that guarantees the dog against genetic defects FOR LIFE? She's an active member of ytca or a local yorkie club?

Why is she letting the puppies go TWO WEEKS too early? Why is she letting them go to homes where people don't understand that the breed is a critter hunter?

Really, you should learn what a good breeder is before you start talking about how great this one is. http://www.gsdca.org/gsdca_joomla/index.…


Answer:raised together many owners never have a problem but its always good to be careful.

there are tons of vids on YA of dogs playing with there more sedate bunny companions.

but let the animals meet each other before you decide to get a dog.

if the rabbits is stressed outi would begin considering some things.

rabbits cant handle stress well.

a puppy being hyper and trying to pounce on him could end badly.

a rabbit does have claws and when it feels threatened well there ya go.

if you had a calm breed and the two got along BOTH were babies id consider it in fact i have considered it and decided against it.

puppy akita bunny

the pup is relaxed and laid back i let him meet a rabbit and he reacted great but the rabbit welll no he didnt take it well


Answer:Once the puppy has eaten the bunny, there will be no fights.

Honestly, it's hard to know for sure, it depends on the individual dog. But keep in mind that Yorkies are bred to kill vermin. Bunny = vermin.


Answer:I don't really know, I'd first try it at least, cuz if you don't you'll never know. It really depends on if the bunny thinks that the dog is invading his/her space or not. Or vice versa.

Answer:I'd just be careful, especially as the dog grows. any dog I've ever had, big or small, has been crazy about chasing and attempting to eat rabbits.

Answer:No they wont fight……

Answer:I'm not an expert on bunnies, but the rabbits that I have had were always pretty passive. I think the question is mostly, "will the dog attack the bunny?" I can't see the rabbit doing any sustainable harm to the dog, although anything is possible with teeth and claws. Given that the puppy is only 10 weeks, it should be early enough in its life that you can properly socialize the two so that you don't have to worry. Keep in mind though, Yorkies are terriers, that means they were bred to hunt small vermin (like rabbits), so the two should never be left alone together, no matter how well they seem to get along. It only takes one momentary lapse in judgment from the dog (which happens to dogs a lot) and you can't get that moment back again if something happens to either animal. Here's an excerpt from the AKC on Yorkies, "Named for the English city from which they originally hail, Yorkshire Terriers were used in the nineteenth century to catch rats in clothing mills."

Here are some tips on proper socializing. http://cats.about.com/cs/catmanagement10…

The article is about dogs and cats, but it works for rabbits too. Go slow, and supervise everything.

Can a pet rabbit be kept in a big cage outdoors in temperatures above zero or will they die?

March 27th, 2010 admin No comments

so i have asked you before if it can be kept in temperatures from 10c - 20c and everybody thought i meant -10 to -20

i mean 10c - 20c above zero and will they die or is it cold for them

pleeeaase help

thanks


Answer:I keep my rabbits outdoors all year and my area's climate sounds similar to yours. HOWEVER, I do cover the cages with tarps to keep out the rain and wind, and make sure they have plenty of clean hay for warmth. (The tarps keep the temperature inside my rabbits' cages warm enough that their water rarely freezes even on the most biterly cold nights.) I also have the cages positioned in such a way that they get plenty of sun during the day and are somewhat sheltered from prevailing winds. Providing adequate food (in terms of both quality and quantity) ensures that they have enough body fat to keep them warm.

Answer:Yes. We used to keep our 2 bunnies outside together and we would only bring them in if it was -30. They had a hutch stuffed to the brim with straw and a plugged in heat pad under the hutch that kept them warm. Well, that and by having two of them they snuggled. Actually our bunnies ditched the hutch last year and dug a 10 ft. deep hole and they took their straw down into it and thats where they stayed all winter. They survived! You just have to make sure they always have food and water (in -30 water freezes very quickly) and that they can not get trapped anywhere that would keep them in the cold.

Answer:As long as the animals are well protected (sides and a roof) they should be ok. Rabbits are best at 55-65 degrees F which converts to 10c-20c perspective. Mine have been outside for years before I built them their own barn in which they get to below freezing some days. As long as they are not directly exposed to the elements of the weather, they will be fine.

Answer:I think they can survive, but if they can either have a small wooden or metal house in which you could throw some old blankets or if they can dig around than they will be happier, again it depends on the rabbit , on his fur ,size etc, i suggest you ask your veterinary or have a look on this website

http://www.pdsa.org.uk/pet-health-advice…


Answer:that's not a horse question

they will die, my friend kept her rabbits outside all the time and when the temperature was staying about 15 degrees they froze and died. :( so sad but at least she kept the baby rabbits inside her garage and they didn't die. :)


Answer:i have a lionhead rabbit that i kept in a hutch in my unheated garage all winter. I just stuffed one side full of straw and she was fine =]

Answer:I THINK THEIR FUR KEEPS THEM WARM…………yes they are accustomed to living in the wild………and will survive Rabbits grow plentifully in australisa which has extreme weather conditions!

Answer:Yes, but their lifespan will be shortened from 10 years to 3 years

Answer:as long as it ain't a horse it's fine by me.

Answer:Why is this in the horse section!!!!!

Help! Clown Loach swimming on it

March 27th, 2010 admin No comments

Ok so I have a 10 gallon tank with two clown loaches in it! I have a big one and a small one (just turned out that way) and they get along perfectly fine. I have a heater, gravel, two fake plants, and a lightbulb. I know the big one didnt attack the smaller one because, well, I just KNOW it! The small one always swims on his side or upside down near the surface of the tank! I used to have three clown loaches, but the 3rd small one did the same thing and died, too! That was like a week ago, and I need to know what's going on! Please help! Pleasssseeee! I'm really attached to my little girl! If there is nothing wrong, phew! But if she's going to die, so long little Lisa.

additional facts PLEASE! jessierox786@gmail.com

P.S. My tank has water dechlorinator, and I know it has nothing to do with the water or anything. Maybe he got hurt? Maybe he broke a fin? Please answer quickly!!!


Answer:Laying on their sides at the bottom is normal behavior. But because the other loach died I would say this is not normal and is caused by the poor living conditions.

Clown loaches will outgrow your tank assuming you care enough to maintain water quality.

http://www.liveaquaria.com/product/prod_…

Please read this site especially and take note of Marge the 11.5 inch clown loach- http://www.loaches.com/species-index/clo…


Answer:Swimming at strange angles, and even lying on their sides on the bottom, is normal for clown loaches, unlike most other fishes.

However, yours will not live long in a 10-gallon tank. Clown loaches grow to be about a foot long, and they need a minimum tank size of around 100 gallons.


Answer:Clown loaches quite often lie on their side just because they want to. They have very unusual behaviour for fish.

Hope this is all that's wrong.

My green budgie has REALLY uneven feathers?!?

March 27th, 2010 admin No comments

okay so I have this green budgie and before it's feathers were normal but then now..one of it's wings are bigger than the other. and also yesterday all of a sudden it didn't have a long tail! Like it got about 2 inches shorter. Please help me. will it be fine? I think it's because of the way they clipped the wings before I bought it :( what do I do?


Answer:Your budgie is probably just molting! If you look closely at him, you'll probably see the new pin feathers growing in, and lots of old feathers on the bottom of his cage. He'll be a little more cranky during his molt, since it's a somewhat uncomfortable experience - if he doesn't mind, you can spray him lightly with a water bottle to soften the new feathers and help them come in.

Answer:It's either molting or not preening enough.

Try buying it some molting seed. If it's not preening enough, give your bird some sunflower seeds. The oil will help. It should be fine. :)

Why is my cat so interested with grapes?

March 27th, 2010 admin No comments

i have a bowl of grapes and he keeps putting up his paw to touch them and hes sniffing them hes not eating them so is he trying to play with them or something?


Answer:Just be care full with him around grapes as grapes are toxic to cats so hide them away when your not around,he is just being curious as cats are, he cant quite make out if they are edible or an object, but like i say hide them away if he is home alone in case he eats one.

Answer:I have a cat that will eat almost anything that accidentally falls to the ground… except grapes. He does the same thing your cat does with them. It seems like he's trying to figure out if they're ok to eat. They must not have a strong enough "food" smell to convince him to try to eat them.

Answer:He might want to eat them. My moms cat eats grapes but only if they're cut it half first. Who knows….think about your cat….his brain isn't much bigger than a walnut, if your brain was that small wouldn't you be thrilled with a grape?

Answer:As long as he's not eating them - you are safe. He may be trying to figure them out - if its a toy or not. Grapes and raisins are toxic to dogs and cats.

Why wont my chickens lay eggs?

March 27th, 2010 admin No comments

i got 7 hens just under a week ago and so fr i have only had 2 eggs 1 first night and one couple days later. they have a home made coop until next week when i buy a proffessionally made. they are in a field with horses and have the whole place to wondr about, they are on layers pellets and are not shut up at night they just go in the coop on there own at night. could the stress off moving cause them to not lay. im new to this so sorry if its a daft question


Answer:Could be stress, could be that some of them have not yet started laying if they are youngsters - but most likely they ARE laying and you just haven't found the eggs. Mine often go into the silliest places where I would never think of looking - certainly not in the nest box!

It could also be that something is taking and eating the eggs before you find them - do you have a dog? Our dog steals them all the time and is getting rather fat due to this habit.

I would expect about 5 or 6 eggs per hen per week if they are laying (i.e. not too young, old, moulting or in the depths of winter.)

One other thing, hens often feel more secure if you do shut the door on them at night. If you delay letting them out for a little while in the morning you might persuade them to lay in the coop!


Answer:Our hens didnt start laying for about 2 weeks after they moved in. Their egg production will also change depending on the seasons. They should start laying 6-7 days a week once the days get longer, but during periods of shorter light, theyre egg production will drop right down. Ours dropped to only 2-3 a week during the winter months, then picked up again once we were into spring/summer. Its worth waiting for though, I remember finding our first egg…it was still warm , a bit on the small side, but worth the wait!!

Some people get round the light issue by installing lights in the coop to stimulate production, I would rather the hens laid according to their natural seasons….only a theory, but I thin they carry onlaying for more years if they arent forced to produce when they should naturally be resting and conserving their energy for the winter months


Answer:1. First of all they still might not be old enough if you have only had them for a week.

2. Or maybe they're in the coup somewhere and you haven't found them.

3. It could be stress but if 2 are laying it is not as likely.

4. Please bear in mind it is winter and it's very cold so usually they will have a break, my chickens did and are now laying coz it is spring and the temp is warmer.


Answer:First how old are they as you haven't said. As they have free run it could be they are laying eggs other places rather than in the coop. Also in the autumn and winter they lay alot less than in the spring summer months. I would also advice you to lock them up at nights so foxes can't get to them as foxrs are evil little creatures that will kill every one of them not just one or two and eat them.

Answer:Do you have grit and oyster shells down for them? The oyster shells they need to produce the egg shell, you may also want to buy some poultry spice to add to their pellets. This should make sure they get everything they need. I give mine warm porridge in the morning with the poultry spice in. Here's a link for you on what else you can feed the hens http://www.backyardchickens.com/web/view…

You may find they won't lay properly for a few weeks until they are settled it really doesn't take much to stop them laying. Mine stopped laying for a week after bonfire night.


Answer:If is winter where you are they will not be in full production till a little warmer. You said they are free range, good and they will scratch up the horse manure and clean up the seeds that remain. I would also give them free access to oyster shell to replace the calcium used in making the egg shells. You should close them in at night making it weasel proof, no opening larger then a half inch as a weasel will do much harm in one night. There is a battery powered door closer, at night, and opener, at Sunup, if you can not be there to do it.

Pitbull mother father and son hosehold dynamics as puppy grows up?

March 27th, 2010 admin No comments

would like to know if aggression between father dog and son dog is likely to happen as puppy matures


Answer:http://www.badrap.org/rescue/multidogs.h…

http://www.pbrc.net/multidogs.html

http://www.pitbull-chat.com/showthread.p…

http://www.pitbull-chat.com/showthread.p…

http://www.pitbull-chat.com/showthread.p…

The breed is genetically predisposed to dog aggression.Aggression isuues between any/all of the dogs is certainly possible.Especially if all animals are left intact.

http://www.pbrc.net/breeding.html

http://www.pbrc.net/breeding3.html


Answer:there will be some "aggression" naturally. its the fathers/mothers way of putting the puppys in check its helps the puppies develope things they would need to survive in the wild. though i would get the puppies spade/neutered as soon as possible, doing so will make your dogs less aggressive and more relaxed

Answer:yes its likely. I would Neuter the son.Just to maintain peace and Harmony. Neuter both unless the dad is is a breeding dog.

Wont happen until the pup reaches maturity. And there wont be any REAL scuffles until someone is in heat. Thats when it happens. Good luck.


Answer:i see a pit bull mauling in your future. euthanize them all before it is to late.

Answer:yes it is possible. get the whole bunch neutered and spayed and it will be better

I can

March 27th, 2010 admin No comments

I have 3 Jack Russell Terriers and I can walk 2 of them fine. But the one, Lady has horrible aggression toward other dogs and I can't walk her everyday (she is a few pounds over weight). In my neighborhood people have their dogs roaming their yards without leashes, so when I walk Lady past their house their dogs come running toward us (sometimes friendly) and Lady tries to attack them (she will bite them).

There's no other place for me to walk her, but how things are now, I don't see the point in walking her if all she does is get into fights.

Is there anything I can do? I already walk her with a gentle leader, but she can still bite (and escape) with that on.

:(


Answer:I have had dogs who would literally chew through our fence and run away only to come back about one hour later…..They would go and crash neighborhood parties and take the food away from little kids. Here are some things we tried.

~Muzzle (like everyone else is saying)

~Full Body Leash to hold the dog back more

~Good Obeidant School some that last 2 weeks really do the trick

~Take The Dog On Walks When There Is No One In Sight

~Excersize the Dog In Another Way Than Walking

I was watching an episode of "It's Me Or The Dog" when I saw this dog that didn't like to walk. So they brought the dog to this cute little My Doggie Can Swim kind of place. They had the dog swim instead of walk. It was entertaining for the dog as well as very healthy.

Hope that helped!
:)


Answer:Well since you do not want to train her then I suggest you just put a muzzle on her when you want to take her for a walk.

She should have on a prong collar so that you could correct her the MINUTE she looked like she was getting aggressive. However that would constitute taking time to train her.


Answer:Not walking her will exacerbate the problem.

–Sign up for obedience training.

–Take her out earlier in the morning/later at night when there is less activity (dogs aren't out when I'm walking at 5:00am.)

–Get a treadmill to exercise her.


Answer:Muzzle her for walks and keep her on a tight leash. WHen the dogs come running up, hold her by the collar and correct her when she shows negative behaviors.

Answer:Put a muzzle on your dog and hire a dog trainer to help you fix her issues.

Answer:muzzle

training.

exposure (with the muzzle on)


Answer:Get a muzzle! and try walking her early in the morning or later at night

Answer:Um. Okay, no. This dog is YOUR responsibility. It is completely UNFAIR of you to NOT walk her just because it's difficult. You are making it so much harder on her. I can't believe you just don't walk her. All dogs need exercise ESPECIALLY Jack Russells!

If she can escape from a harness, it's not on right. If she can bite, she should be wearing a muzzle when you're training her. You need to work with positive reinforcement with her. She is feeling threatened by other dogs, and by totally avoiding contact with them by leaving her at home, you are reinforcing this negative behavior.

You need to train her properly if she's going to have any quality of life. Start very gradually, (take her out alone) and hold her attention when another dog is nearby. As soon as she notices the other dog, get her attention and give her a treat. Keep her attention and just keep treating while the other dog is near. You might need to get someone to help you so that it's a controlled situation, not some random dog charging at her to play.

But seriously, not offense, you really need to grow up. It really makes me angry that you essentially gave up on exercising her. Work with her.

*EDIT** DO NOT listen to whoever said to "hold her collar and correct her!!" Holding her collar or tightening your grip on the lead when another dog approaches will only reinforce her nervousness and make her think she has something to be stressed abuot. She can sense your stress, so you MUST resist this urge and stay calm and upbeat. Positive reinforcement! (Reward for good, not punish for bad!)

Categories: wnsi Tags:

Is there a wireless dog fence that doesn

March 27th, 2010 admin No comments

I have an underground wired dog fence that I keep having problems with and I'd fed up with having to dig up and fix nicks in the wire twice a year because of rats and moles. I tried a wireless fence once that has a single transmitter that emits a circular boundary but my property has several hills and it causes the boundary to shift often. I am looking for a wireless fence that maybe has something like posts every couple yards that emit the signal between them rather than having a single unit so that I can control where the boundary is. Does anyone know of such a product,or something similar?


Answer:Yes- there is one that creates a 'bubble' around the area where the transmitter is and you can move the transmitter whenever you want to. http://www.petco.com/product/6533/PetSaf…

Stocking up in one leg after tendon injury?

March 27th, 2010 admin No comments

My mare pulled a tendon a few months ago and ive been hand walking her for 10-15 mins almost every day and she also has turnout in a small pen for 5 hours every day. Well recently i started riding her for 10 mins, just bareback walking around a flat field. Shes very energetic so she tries to trot but ends up just prancing in place, so she hasn't been walking the whole time. I'll bring her back to her pen and come back in an hour and theres fluid in her recovering leg! Its not swollen and theres no heat just fluid. Could she just be stocking up in the one leg? What else might this be? Thank you!


Answer:This is a very good indication that the leg is not healed sufficiently for the amount of work that you are doing. You need to discuss what is happening with your vet and consider having another ultrasound done to compare the damage still present to what the area originally looked like. Until then, you should also go back to no riding at all and minimal turnout and hand-walking.

Answer:You should be running cold water on the leg for 15 to 30 minutes every time after riding her.(Icing would be the best, but not necessary) Rubbing alcohol can also be liberally rubbed on the leg for a cooling effect. You should experiment with wrapping the leg before you ride and may want to cool it and re wrap it after you ride, see what works best to keep the swelling down for 'your mare'. Tendon injuries take along time to heal, sometimes longer than a broken bone. Even after she is healed it would be good if you always hose her legs off after riding.

Answer:If this only started happening since you've been riding her, you need to back off and don't ride. "Prancing" with your weight in her back is actually fairly stressful for her tendon. Tendons typically take at least 6 months to heal. For now you need to start cold hosing that leg for 20 minutes at a time a few times a day as possible, and go back to handwalking her.

Answer:if it is only a few months i would say she is doing too much.

did she have a scan and have it injected? if you had her scanned i would get it done again and check for healing.

we have a mare who pulled a tendon. she had it injected. she was on complete bed rest for 2 weeks then 8 weeks in hand walking for 15mins a day. he now goes onto the walker on walk for 1 hr a day. she has to have a full year off. she has had another scan and it is healing very well. you can only feel a little bow now. but no swelling.


Answer:I'm just answering to support information others have given you. If she is accumulating tissue fluid, it is an indication that she is not ready for the amount of stress being placed on the tendon. When heat develops at the core of the tendon, more damage occurs. Cold hosing for 15 minutes any time she is exercised is helpful to dissipate that heat and to prevent fluid accumulation. Every time she stocks up in that leg, it impairs the circulation to the healing injury, so you want to avoid it. This is a sign that you are moving too fast with her recovery, and she is not ready to be ridden. You can have your vet ultrasound the tendon to see where it is at with healing, which is what I would do before resuming riding her.

Things in breed standards you think are useless?

March 27th, 2010 admin No comments

In my breed, the Papillon, it says the papillon "The following faults shall be severely penalized - Color other than white not covering both ears, back and front, or not extending from the ears over both eyes. A slight extension of the white collar onto the base of the ears, or a few white hairs interspersed among the color, shall not be penalized, provided the butterfly appearance is not sacrificed." I don't get why they have that, but don't penalize a solid marked face…

I'm keeping the one puppy out of my latest litter that has white on her ear. She's made great and has a very high drive! I will keep her intact and possibly breed her in the future since the white ear can pop up any time- it has nothing to do with if a parent has a white ear or not.

So, anything in your breed's standard you find useless?


Answer:I am SO glad that our standard has no restrictions on markings. Some of the most interesting/attractive Bassets I've seen have had unusual markings, like lace ears.

Fortunately, the Basset Hound standard is pretty functional, without much in the way of "cosmetics". I would prefer that it be a bit more specific about "allowed colors", since blues do crop up and under the current standard you could show them (blue is undesirable due to associated health issues). But basically "no good hound is a bad color".


Answer:The concern is that white on the ears and/or lack of pigment around the eyes has been linked with deafness although I know many mis-marks in agility and obedience who hear just fine and a beautifully marked pup of impeccable pedigree with hearing parents who is stone deaf. Go figure. I think the standard says the given two dogs of equal quality, a dog with a while nose band and blaze is given preference over a solid head. I have one of each and they are equally beautiful in my eyes!

Answer:I would never be so arrogant as to think I am smarter then the people that came up with my breeds standard.

If there is something that should be changed in the standard there are ways to go about it by changing the standard through the parent club and its membership.

No ETHICAL breeder picks and chooses what part of the standard they are going to breed.

That kind of behavior is for backyard breeders.


Answer:Breed standards are there for reason, Without them we wouldn't have a guide lines to go by. If a dog has a fault such as color, Temperament or bad hips or elbows it can be passed on to the puppies.

It's called a recessive gene.


Answer:Breed standards are set for a reason, so therefore I don't think any breed standard, for any breed is useless, or it wouldn't be in the standard to begin with. I also agree with the first poster.

Answer:what do you mean the white ear can pop up at any time? It does matter if the parents have it. It may be recessive, which means both parents have to have it in their lines, but color and marking are genetically linked traits.

Answer:Well my favorite "breed" is a mutt so there's not really any ridiculous standard for them. And I don't breed dogs.

Although what annoys me the most is when I see German Shepherd dogs that are supposed to be the epitome of their breed but their hind end is low to the ground like their back legs are weak. They don't look healthy and they look like they're having a difficult time standing. I'm sure someone somewhere came up with a reason why the GS dogs should look weak but it doesn't mean I have to agree that they look ok…and no, thinking they look funny that way doesn't make me a BYB.


Answer:In some breeds there are serious genetic health issues that are attached to coat color. It may seem 'useless,' but it is included in the standard for a reason.

Putting genetics aside, I think the entire modern English Bulldog standard is ridiculous. What once was an athletic breed now has trouble eating, breathing, exercising, mating, and giving birth while adhering to the breed standard.


Answer:No, there is nothing in my breed's standard that I find useless. I realize that those who devised the standard had more experience with the breed AND with the results of breeding than I do.

As a Bernese breeder I know that markings in my breed do not breed true - Dark faced dogs (http://www.naturfoto-cz.de/photos/others… are preferred by most breeders because they are more likely to breed true, flashier marked dogs with more white (http://www.thebestofbreeds.com/catalog/i… http://www.clevelandseniors.com/images/p… ) are eye catching and are what many judges prefer —- However, continually breeding dogs with the amount of white that the judges like will lead to dogs with too much white and that white will slide all over the place ( http://www.brrnese.com/images/Copy of%… http://www.dogbreedinfo.com/images18/Ber… ) and if those dogs were also bred from the dogs would stop looking like Bernese (http://www.thriftyfun.com/images/feedbac…

Perhaps tossing aside the pieces of the standard that breeders don't like is what leads to dogs that no longer breed true? I know that in the 1930s many Manchester Terrier breeders were plucking or coloring the mis-marks (single hairs of white and small patches) on the saddles and forechests of their dogs — it took only a few generations before it was difficult to find a well-constructed dog who DIDN'T have a splotch of white and the breeders had to go back and breed to lessor dogs to get rid of the garbage that they had allowed into their breed.